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Southwest Utah and Beyond
Southwest Utah is a pretty unique place to visit where the valley around Hurricane is just over 3,000 feet above sea level and in just over a short drive you can be at an elevation of over 10,000 feet. Due to the diversity of the landscape, almost every highway becomes a scenic bypass in all directions. Within a short drive are national and state parks that can be visited in three different states, as well as local national monuments and museums that tell the story of early settlement.
Utah 143 is listed as a National Scenic Byway, but it’s only 55 miles long and resembles a high-altitude roller coaster that starts at 6,000 feet on the West Rim to elevations over 10,000 feet along the Plateau and drops back down to 6,500 feet on the East Slope. This very trail was once a migration route used by Native American clans to leave their winter desert homes for summer hunting grounds high in the mountains. Along the way is Brain Head Peak, the highest point on the plateau at 11,307 meters, which offers some spectacular ski slopes. Along this trail, there is also a view to the north of the colorful Cedar Monument amphitheater.
SR-14 connects US-89 to Cedar City via a 40-mile route known as Cedar Mountain. The detour passes through the Dixie National Forest with groves of aspens and tall evergreens with an abundance of wildflowers, as well as lava rocks. Traversing the south side of the Markaqunt Plateau, with elevations ranging from 8,500 to 11,000 feet, offers some spectacular views of Zion National Park and out into the tall pine forests. At an elevation of 9,200 feet is Navajo Lake, which, seen from the vantage point high above, is a perfect crystal blue body of water surrounded by aspens and pines. Another photo lake is Aspen Mirror Lake, found about half a mile from the beltway with a short drive on a dirt road and a short hike through an aspen grove. The most popular spot along this bypass is Cascade Falls.
Reaching the falls is quite easy and somewhat difficult. The easier part comes from 3.5 miles of maintained unpaved road that is very dusty. The hike to the falls gets a bit more difficult. The hike is just over half a mile one way with steep ups and downs where the trail winds around the top of a steep cliff; and breathtaking views are along the entire route. The waterfall originates from Navajo Lake through fissures in the limestone bed and flows through a small cave high on the cliff face. The overlook is only a few feet from the cave and offers a spectacular view of the falls that tumble 1,000 feet down the mountain and through the forest to Zion Narrows.
Utah 14 and Utah 143 are connected by Highway 148, known as the Cedar Breaks Scenic Byway, which highlights the Dixie National Forest and Cedar Breaks National Monument for seven miles. At an elevation of more than 10,000 feet, the monument overlooks an amphitheater half a mile deep and three miles wide from edge to edge, where the walls have eroded into carved spirals with glittering multicolored rock formations where the colors are orange, coral, rose and white glow from the reflection of the sun. The amphitheater lies in the middle of lush meadows with wild flowers and a subalpine forest, where small stands of bristlecone pines grow along the edge. Cedar Breaks National Monument is one of America’s special places, crowning the highest steps of the Grand Staircase and offering sweeping views of the Great Basin Desert in the distance.
Between Zion Canyon and Kolob Canyon is a 21-mile steep and windy scenic drive into the mountains through lush forest known as Kolob Terrace Road. The highway begins in the small community of Virgin, passes homes and farms as it winds in and out of Zion National Park, ending at Lava Point, one of the highest elevations in Zion Park at 7,890 feet, with views of Cedar Breaks, Pink Cliffs, and Zion Narrows.
Johnson Canyon Road begins east of Kanab and travels 28 miles along the west side of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument with great views of the colorful Grand Staircase cliffs. Leaving US-89 for Canyon Road, we pass farmhouses with horses grazing in fields with sandstone cliffs in the background before reaching the Old West location where Gun smoke was filmed. The film is set on private land, but a good view of the crumbling buildings can be seen from the highway. Eight miles on, the visual stimulus increases as the highway begins to climb steep white cliffs that contrast with the sage and juniper below. After 18 miles, you can take the gravel Glendale Bench Road 15 miles back to US-89 North for faster access to Utah 9.
The northwestern section of Zion National Park, known as Kolob Canyon, is located at Exit 40 on Interstate 15, 40 miles north of Zion Canyon. The five-mile one-way scenic drive provides access to hiking trails and scenic overlooks. This stretch of road passes through a narrow parallel field of canyons carved into the western edge of the Colorado Plateau with majestic peaks and 2,000-foot cliff faces. At the end of the ring road is the Timber Creek Overlook Trail. The trail is just over a mile out and back with a modest 100 foot elevation change. The trail follows a small ridge that offers spectacular views of the Pine Valley Mountains, the Kolob Terrace, and the Kolob Canyons. At the end of the trail, looking south, is MT. Trumbull on the north rim of Grand Canyon-Parasahant National Monument, about 100 miles away.
Utah State Route 9 begins at the intersection of Mt. Carmel Junction on US-89 and ends east of St George and is the access highway for the east and west entrances to Zion National Park, which showcases majestic mesas and towering sandstone cliffs. Entering the park from the east, the highway cuts through the Checkerboard Mesa area to towering cliffs where colorful rock formations change around every corner and some are so close to the highway you can reach out and almost touch them. As the highway passes through the Pine Creek Canyon area, it passes through a short tunnel before reaching the impressive 5,631-foot-long tunnel that cuts straight through the high red rock cliff face, where gallery windows offer a quick view of the entire tunnel exterior. After exiting the tunnel and driving up the steep incline around the switch, the pullout offers a magnificent view of the high cliffs with side windows that will take your breath away. As the bypass descends into the desert canyon floor, the highway is lined with beautiful trees with streams of the Virgin River running parallel to the bypass.
A visit to Grand Canyon National Park should never be complete without a tour of the North Rim. Not many people venture to the North Rim, not because it’s hard to get to or the season is so short, it’s just time-consuming to get there. Once there, the long drive is worth it for the views. The Cape Royal Scenic Drive is just over 21 miles of narrow winding road through groves of Aspen and Ponderosa Pines that climbs to the top of a mesa with several overlooks that offer great views of the canyon. At Cape Royal Point is the Angels Window, a natural arch that frames the sweeping bend of the Colorado River at the Unkar Delta. A half-mile hike leads right over the top of the arch. A left turn from Cape Royal Roads leads to Point Imperial, the highest point on the North Rim at 8,803 feet, overlooking the Painted Desert and the eastern part of the Grand Canyon. Clearly visible are the narrow walls, which seem to be only winding cracks of the Marble Canyon, where the magnificent scene opens, the Grand Canyon. Just past the visitor center is Bright Angle Point. A quarter-mile paved but steep and narrow trail leads to the top of the mint, where the views are stunning.
If you want to explore a bit outside of Utah, just over 100 miles northwest of St. George is home to three Nevada state parks, making for a pleasant round trip. Just outside Panaco is Cathedral Gorge State Park, located in a long narrow valley where unique and dramatic patterns have eroded into the soft bentonite clay. The walkways allow you to get as close to the cathedral as the bell towers. Just a few miles to the north is a pull-out where the view of the canyon is a photographer’s dream. Passing by Pioche, a small historic mining town, it’s worth spending a little time exploring before driving through the Nevada backcountry to Spring Valley State Park, where the highway winds through a twisting canyon of beautiful pinks and light grays before arriving at the 59-acre reservoir , known for its excellent fishing and variety of waterfowl. The journey continues through some of Nevada’s historic ranches dating back to the 1800s before reaching Echo Canyon State Park, known for year-round boating, fishing, swimming and camping in some of eastern Nevada’s finest rural settings.
Just over 100 miles south of St. George, Nevada are bright red Aztec outcrops nestled in gray and brown limestone in the ever-popular Valley of Fire State Park, which also features ancient petrified trees and petroglyphs more than 2,000 years old. . NV 169 is the main highway through the park with many turn-offs with spectacular views of the eroded rock landscape. But the park isn’t just about red rocks, with short hiking trails, narrow canyons, desert lookouts and a variety of more colorful rocks in bright colors of yellow, pink, gray, white and orange along six miles of White Domes Road.
The Rockcut Trail hike is a short three-quarter mile over sandy sand and rocks to Mouse Tank, where there are some amazing rock formations along the way with petroglyphs carved into the rock walls. As the road continues to climb up to the small summit of Rainbow Vista, you can see an amazing array of rocks in every color imaginable, and a one-mile hiking trail leads deeper into the colorful rock formations. Just past this overlook is a short side road with Silica Dome Lookout and a great view of the red sandstone of Fire Canyon. At the end of the White Domes Road, there is another wonderful opportunity to explore a selection of colorful rock formations along the 1.25-mile loop, the White Domes Trail. This hiking trail is quite amazing as it crosses beautiful sand and then descends steeply into a canyon where it turns and winds through a very narrow gorge before turning and slowly returning to the cliff tops.
Within the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, northwest of St. George Utah’s 7,400-acre Snow Canyon State Park is surrounded by ancient lava flows and colorful Navajo sandstone cliffs, all in a rugged desert setting that offers plenty of opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages. Located at the intersection of the Colorado Plateau, the Mojave Desert, and the Great Basin Desert, it is home to a diversity of wildlife and plants found nowhere else in Utah. It demonstrates that Snow Canyon has a long history of human settlement from the Anasazi Indians to today’s location for films such as Jeremiah Johnson, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and The Electric Horseman.
People are always interested in the foundation that built America into what it is today, where every town and small town has its own story. Frontier Homestead State Park does just that for Cedar City and the surrounding area. The museum houses horse-drawn carriages to some of Ford’s first cars, along with printing presses and the beginning of the railroad days. The outdoor homestead section displays some of the original log houses, a schoolhouse and a sheep shearing shed along with an antique sawmill to a replica iron blast furnace. Just off the highway stands one of the two original massive cranes used to dig the ore out of the ground.
Founded in the mid-1850s and abandoned in the mid-1950s by the Mormons, Grafton is now just a ghost town. Today, only a few restored buildings still stand, a reminder of the history of the area’s settlement and the hard times they faced in the desert environment, relying on faith and each other to survive.
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